Saturday, June 30, 2012
Xavier and I judge the waves
When we went to the beach, Xavier and i thought we should try to judge the waves. So we sat down on the sand and waited for a wave to come. A wave that came and was not even touching our feet was called a puny wave. One that came and just barely touched our feet is called a tiny wave. One that surrounds us very gently is a small wave. A wave that comes to us a little harder is a medium wave. A wave that hits us and goes up to our stomach is a big wave, and a wave that comes and hits us pretty hard and makes our legs turn is a huge wave. And last but definitely not the least, the wave that comes really hard and makes us fall on our backs and goes right over us is the GIGANTIC WAVE. After that big wave comes Xavier starts to get pulled in because it is so strong. But then I grabbed is arm. We were so wet and sandy after this.
I wonder what will happen next...
Sophie
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Sophie,
ReplyDeleteYour writing is very good, and the story is vivid and entertaining. But Grandfather has to warn you about ocean breakers. The ocean beach in San Francisco, where I went swimming (usually it was wading, it was so cold) when I was a boy, is posted with signs today: "Dangerous Undertow." The signs go on to explain in two languages that people have drowned there. I don't remember the signs being there when we lived there, but there was probably something, because I remember being curious about what the undertow felt like.
The undertow of course is the receding wave, that flows back downhill into the ocean with considerable force, sometimes underneath an incoming wave. I used to stand sideways with my legs spread apart, and let the receding water make my feet sink down into the sand. I went to the beach by myself. Neither my parents nor the city government were that concerned about it in those days.
But I have advice for you: Do NOT sit passively and let a wave wash over you! As you have now learned from experience, happily without harm, the wave can sweep you out into the ocean. ALWAYS be ready to take defensive action with the breakers.
One other tip: if you are a ways out in the water, do not let a wave "break" onto you. Instead, dive into it and swim to the other side.
love, GB
are the waves really that big????????????????????????????????????????????? if they are i am very surprised.
ReplyDeletelove leni